Peru’s coffee identity is expanding. While regions like Cajamarca and Cusco have historically defined the country’s specialty reputation, other landscapes—often overlooked or logistically isolated—are now stepping forward with coffees of equal promise. In this section, we highlight two regions in particular: Huánuco and Huancavelica, where competitions, festivals, and renewed local pride are putting producers and their coffees on the map. These stories aren’t just about recognition—they’re about identity building, infrastructure gaps, and the power of visibility.
Huancavelica’s coffee renaissance: How a remote region is entering the specialty market
Four years ago, deep in the remote Andes of Huancavelica, a remarkable discovery was made, an unrecognised coffee-producing region where coffee trees grew in orchard-like settings at elevations of 2,300 meters above sea level. Despite its obscurity, the area of Tayacaja and Tintay Puncu possessed extraordinary potential.
The mother varieties of Catuai and Typica remained intact, unaffected by rust or borer infestations, presenting an untapped opportunity for high-altitude specialty coffee.
A vision for change
One of the key figures behind the movement to bring visibility to this region is Oscar Martinez Habich, a dedicated coffee advocate with family connection to the region and founder of Saba Café, and more recently, the Makeda Project, a new organisation focussed on sourcing green coffee. Oscar has been instrumental in working alongside producers, implementing better processing techniques, and promoting the potential of Tayacaja’s coffee to buyers and industry professionals.
Oscar’s journey into specialty coffee began ten years ago when the market for Peruvian specialty coffee was still emerging. Initially, his passion stemmed from a love of flavour and aroma, but over time, it became a deeper calling—one that reshaped his life. Five years ago, he made a bold decision to leave his position as a risk manager at a local bank in Lima’s financial centre, trading his office for the valleys of Huancavelica in search of the region’s finest specialty coffees.
The idea of creating a coffee festival in such a remote location was ambitious. How do you showcase a coffee region that no one in the industry had even heard of? The challenge was not just about recognition; it was about overcoming logistical barriers, earning trust from local producers, and building an ecosystem that could sustain specialty coffee production in the long term.
The journey to the first festival
At the time, PROVRAEM, a government initiative focused on supporting avocado production in the region, recognised the potential of specialty coffee practices. Seeing the opportunity for collaboration, they invited participation in a regional fair that included coffee and other agricultural products. However, the vision extended beyond a simple trade fair—it was about creating an identity for Tayacaja as a specialty coffee province.
Thus, the Tayacaja Coffee Festival was born. The first edition required convincing producers that their coffee could be something more than just another commodity. Oscar played a key role in this process, working directly with farmers to introduce better practices, showcase the unique flavour profiles of Tayacaja’s coffee, and attract buyers willing to invest in these hidden gems.
Overcoming challenges to build an annual tradition
The journey was not easy. Tintay Puncu is eight hours from Pampas, the capital of Tayacaja province. The roads are precarious, the infrastructure limited—there were no hotels, only two small restaurants, and very little capacity to accommodate visitors.
Yet, the passion for creating something meaningful drove the project forward. With the support of PROVRAEM and other institutions, the festival overcame these limitations. More producers joined, institutions began supporting the initiative, and buyers started taking notice. Slowly but surely, Tayacaja’s coffee was no longer invisible to the world.
The festival’s impact on producers and the community
Since its first edition, the festival has grown into a pivotal event, bringing together more producers, institutions, and industry professionals each year. Beyond celebrating the region’s coffee, it has become a driving force for economic and social development, empowering small- scale producers with access to knowledge, markets, and sustainable practices.
For producers like Mun Gabina, the festival transformed coffee from an uncertain livelihood into a viable future. Specialty coffee is proving to be a catalyst for change in this remote corner of Peru, enabling farmers to access higher prices, invest in better processing methods, and improve their quality of life. Oscar and his work with the Makeda Project have further strengthened this impact.
By providing direct support to producers, helping them refine their processing techniques, and ensuring their coffee reaches high-value markets, Oscar has played a key role in shaping the trajectory of Tayacaja’s specialty coffee movement.
Measuring success and looking ahead
The festival set out with three main objectives:
1. Encourage good agricultural practices: Producers are steadily adopting sustainable and quality- focused techniques.
2. Increase recognition of Tayacaja as a coffee region: Buyers, baristas, and cuppers are now taking notice, fostering new connections and opportunities.
3. Establish specialty coffee as a profitable and sustainable livelihood: The region’s smallholders, spanning districts such as Tintay Puncu, Cochabamba, and Roble, are seeing growing interest in their coffee.
Looking ahead, the goal is to expand the festival’s reach, improve logistical accessibility, and attract even more industry professionals. While challenges remain, particularly in infrastructure, each year proves that the festival is not just an event—it is a movement towards recognition, sustainability, and opportunity for Tayacaja’s coffee producers.
The impact of losing institutional support
As 2025 brings a moment of pause. Due to the withdrawal of institutional support—most notably the USAID-backed PROVRAEM initiative, which had provided essential logistical coordination—the Tayacaja Coffee Festival may not go ahead this year. Organising such a gathering in a region with minimal infrastructure, long travel distances, and fragile connectivity has always been a challenge. Without the scaffolding of key partnerships, the dream has had to yield to the realities of this year.
Still, the vision endures. The work continues in the fields and on drying beds. Producers remain committed to quality, resilience, and regeneration. And those who have witnessed Tayacaja’s rise—whether as attendees, buyers, or partners—carry forward its story, its promise, and its potential. This is not the end. It’s a pause. A reorientation. A moment to reflect, regroup, and reimagine what comes next for Huancavelica’s coffee and the communities it sustains.
From Tayacaja to Tingo María: In one region, a festival redefined identity. In another, competition is revealing what’s been there all along.
Huánuco Coffee Competition: An Interview with José Manuel Zúñiga Martínez
Further north, in the lush high jungle of Huánuco, another quiet revolution is underway. At the heart of it is José Manuel Zúñiga Martínez, a quality consultant and lead judge of the Alto Huallaga Specialty Coffee Competition (CONCAFES). What started as a small regional effort has grown into a fully-fledged circuit of district contests, culminating in a vibrant showcase during Ficafé 2024.
José Manuel and his team are proving that with the right structure, collaboration, and dedication to quality, Huánuco can stand shoulder to shoulder with Peru’s more famous origins. In this interview, we speak to José Manuel about the evolution of the competition, the remarkable coffees emerging from Huánuco, and how a strong internal market may hold the key to both national pride and international recognition.
Mark: Can you introduce yourself and share your experience in coffee competitions and quality assessment?
José: My name is José Manuel Zúñiga Martínez, and I specialise in coffee quality management, with expertise in production, processing, and transformation. Over the past 12 years, I have worked extensively in coffee production and quality control, judging national and regional specialty coffee competitions.
I have had the privilege of serving as a Q Grader Cupper and Lead Judge for the Alto Huallaga Specialty Coffee Competition in Tingo María, Huánuco (2022 & 2024), as well as being a national judge for the Cup of Excellence in multiple editions.
You led the selection and tasting of Huánuco’s best coffees at Ficafé 2024. How did you identify the top 22 coffees?
Showcasing Huánuco’s top 22 coffees at Ficafé 2024 was a collaborative effort between local institutions, district and provincial municipalities, and organisations such as DEVIDA (National Commission for Development and Life without Drugs) Zonal Office Tingo María, CITE Agroindustrial Huallaga, and the Regional Directorate of Agriculture.
We started by organising nine district-level specialty coffee competitions in Marias, Monzón, Chaglla, Chinchao, Daniel Alomías Robles, Mariano Dámaso Beraún, Luyando, Hermilio Valdizán, and Cholón. The winners from each district then advanced to CONCAFES 2024 (IV Alto Huallaga Specialty Coffee Contest, Tingo María, Huánuco).
Huánuco’s coffee quality can be exceptional, yet it remains relatively under the radar. Why do you think it hasn’t gained the same recognition as other regions?
Peru has many diverse coffee-growing regions, each with unique attributes. The perception that some regions are “better” than others is misleading—every coffee region has something special to offer. The difference lies in how some regions have been quicker to transition to high-quality varieties with differentiated genetic profiles, gaining earlier international recognition.
Huánuco is still in that transformation phase, but with its ideal climate, high altitudes, and growing producer engagement, it won’t be long before it secures a place among Peru’s most sought-after coffee origins.
How did the auction go? Were producers satisfied with the results, and will this initiative continue?
The auction for the winners of CONCAFES 2024 took place during Ficafé on November 9. It was an intense and exciting event because we had overcome significant logistical challenges to make it happen. The entire organising team worked hard to ensure producers got the recognition and prices they deserved. This was not just an auction—it was a carefully planned initiative that included:
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Nine district competitions across six provinces
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A final cupping round to select the best 22 coffees
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Three rounds of pre-auction tastings to attract buyers: two in Lima and one in Tingo María
Thanks to the support of
Le Cordon Bleu, DEVIDA, and
Puro Aroma Café, we were able to connect producers with roasters, cafés, and national buyers, ensuring high visibility. Producers were thrilled with the outcome, both financially and in terms of recognition. As with every year, organising CONCAFES is a challenge, but we are fully committed to making the 2025 edition even bigger and better.
What are the biggest challenges for exporting Huánuco coffee internationally?
In the world of specialty coffee, we are still in the process of educating both producers and consumers about what it means to produce, process, and enjoy high-quality coffee. The key challenge isn’t just about exporting—it’s about building a strong internal market where people recognise and value quality coffee. Exporting is important, but if we can generate greater demand within Peru, the entire supply chain benefits.
A strong local market creates a more dynamic coffee economy, where profits are shared among all actors, from production and processing to the final consumer. This internal demand helps producers stay competitive, invest in better processing methods, and ultimately strengthen Huánuco’s reputation on a global scale.
At the same time, for Huánuco to grow internationally, we must comply with export requirements and work on strengthening organisations such as cooperatives and entrepreneurial associations. Many producers still work independently, which makes it harder to access technical training, financial support, and better market opportunities. By reinforcing these structures, we can ensure that Huánuco coffee not only meets international standards but also gains the recognition it deserves.
Which areas in Huánuco have the highest potential for international specialty coffee markets?
Huánuco has four distinct coffee-growing zones that each produce unique and complex cup profiles:
- Monzón & Marías Valley
- Chinchao & Chaglla
- Cholón
- Hermilio Valdizán
These areas have demonstrated great quality potential, and as producers continue refining their processing methods, we expect to see even greater interest from international buyers.
Do you have a favourite coffee from Huánuco? What are the standout flavour profiles of the region?
Every district in Huánuco offers something different, so it’s impossible to choose just one! What makes Huánuco special is its diversity in cup profiles. Coffees from the Alto Huallaga region often present bright acidity, complex notes, and caramelised sweetness. Some lots have a fruity and floral expression, while others lean towards chocolate and nutty undertones with a silky mouthfeel.
Since the first competition in 2019, Huánuco has made significant progress. What has changed, and what’s next?
We’ve come a long way since 2019, when we first organised the Monzón Valley Specialty Coffee Competition with an auction. That event marked a turning point—since then, producers, institutions, and municipalities have become more involved, and now we have nine district competitions leading up to a major regional event.
One of the biggest transformations has been the shift towards high-quality coffee varieties and improved post- harvest processing techniques. Producers are seeing the benefits of investing in quality, and that momentum continues to grow.
Looking ahead to 2025 and beyond, we are focused on:
- Expanding training and support programmes for producers.
- Strengthening cooperative structures to facilitate direct exports.
- Enhancing marketing efforts to elevate Huánuco’s reputation in the specialty coffee sector.
We are now preparing for the V edition of the Alto Huallaga Specialty Coffee Competition - Tingo María 2025.
Beyond the auction: How Huánuco is claiming its place
Huánuco is entering a new era in Peruvian specialty coffee, with a growing community of producers, organisations, and buyers who recognise its potential. Each year, the competition strengthens quality, visibility, and producer engagement, ensuring that the region gains the recognition it deserves. With continuous efforts in competitions, processing advancements, and strategic collaborations, Huánuco is well on its way to becoming a leading name in Peruvian specialty coffee.
From the steep slopes of Tayacaja to the auction floors of Tingo María, Huancavelica and Huánuco are showing what’s possible when visibility meets vision. These aren’t just emerging regions—they’re places where producers are building identity, redefining quality, and asserting their place in Peru’s specialty landscape.
Yet recognition is only the beginning. In the next chapter, we go deeper—into the work of those who aren’t waiting for validation, but are actively shaping their future. From community-run supply chains to income diversification through honey, it’s time to explore how Peru’s producers are rewriting the rules of coffee trade—on their own terms.
Chapter 3. Produce Led Growth
