Peru’s coffee sector is entering a new era—one defined not just by great cup profiles, but by the systems, values, and structures behind them. In a global market increasingly shaped by climate demands, regulatory pressure, and shifting consumer expectations, traceability and innovation are no longer optional—they’re fundamental.
In this opening chapter, we spotlight those leading the charge: Cafédirect’s bold Manifesto for the Future of Coffee, Adriano Cafiso’s cross-continental lessons on transparency, Laguna Los Condores’ case study on navigating the European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), and a technical deep dive into fermentation from Emer Tauma. We also explore CUMPA’s reimagining of Robusta in San Martín—a misunderstood species now rising as a climate-resilient contender.
Together, these pieces reveal how sustainability and traceability are not just checkboxes—they’re building blocks for a new coffee future.
Manifesto for the Future of Coffee: An interview with Nick Martell-Bundock, Head of Purpose at Cafédirect
At Cafédirect, sustainability isn’t just a buzzword—it’s a founding principle. Since 1991, the pioneering UK coffee company has built its business model on putting farmers first. As the industry faces rising temperatures, diminishing yields, and deepening inequality, Cafédirect is doubling down on its mission with a bold new roadmap: The Manifesto for the Future of Coffee.
We spoke with Nick Martell-Bundock, Head of Purpose, to explore the story behind the Manifesto, how it shapes their sourcing in Peru, and what every person in the coffee chain—from producer to consumer—can do to help secure coffee’s future.
Mark: Nick, tell us about your role at Cafédirect and how the Manifesto came together.
Nick: I lead on organisational sustainability and impact with the growers who produce our coffee. The Manifesto for the Future of Coffee lays out how we are changing the way coffee is bought and sold so that we can guarantee the future of coffee – and the people who make it. It builds on our Gold Standard sustainability framework, a set of goals designed to benefit growers, protect the environment, support communities, and influence businesses to do better.
Cafédirect’s Gold Standard Sustainability framework
- Living incomeand long-term partnerships
- Environment-first operations
- Community-centred development
- Business practices that influence positive change
Has this always been part of Cafédirect’s ethos?
These goals have been at the heart of Cafédirect since we started in 1991. Putting farmers first—through decent prices and long-term investment—is built into our business model. This commitment is legally embedded in our Company Articles of Association and is reinforced by our membership of Social Enterprise UK.
Our Guardian Share Committee, made up of farmer representatives, our founder Oxfam & an impact investor ensures we stay on course, holding us accountable for fair and just trade.
Why the urgency now?
Climate change is making coffee harder and more expensive to grow. Global shortages already reflect this. Studies suggest by 2050 half the area growing coffee will no longer be suitable. If farmers can’t make a living from coffee, they’ll stop growing it. Right now, 80% of coffee farmers don’t earn enough to cover the basics—food, healthcare, education.
They need a stable, decent price to invest in their farms and future-proof their livelihoods. At the same time, businesses—including ours—need to cut their environmental footprint and drive real change across the industry.
What does the Manifesto Commit to by 2030?
Every farmer we buy from will have the skills, support, and power to earn more than a living income. We’ll have made enough changes to the way we run our business that we’ll have cut our own carbon footprint in half.
Our approach to business will be so successful that instead of just breaking from the coffee pack we’ll be leading it in this new direction. The work we do and the ideas we share will have motivated 15 million people to do at least one thing to make their life more sustainable.
2030 Manifesto Targets
- All farmers earning more than a living income
- 50% reduction in Cafédirect’s carbon footprint
- 15 million people inspired to take sustainable action
What’s one action you’d ask readers to take away from the Manifesto?
One of our Manifesto goals is to inspire 15 million people to take action for a more sustainable future. One change could be as simple as choosing coffee from a company that pays farmers at least a living income.
You work closely with cooperatives in Peru—how has that shaped your mission?
We work directly with a network of farmer cooperatives, so we receive direct feedback on the challenges they face. Farmers are also involved in our decision-making.
Two of our six board members are producers (including Michael Montalván from CAC La Prosperidad de Chirinos in Peru), ensuring their voices shape our business and Manifesto. Most of the cooperatives that we buy from are also our shareholders, with representation through our Guardian Share Committee, which oversees our Manifesto.
We regularly visit cooperatives in Peru, keeping our relationships strong and making sure we’re actively supporting their needs.
From your sustainability lens, what’s essential when sourcing from origin?
As a minimum we work with Fairtrade cooperatives and primarily buy organic coffee. Our Machu Picchu range is the bestselling branded single origin coffee in the UK, so no surprise Peru is our largest sourcing origin.
Our sister charity, Producers Direct, also has a big presence there. This farmer-led organisation runs Centres of Excellence—training hubs where farmers share knowledge to improve coffee quality and yield, adapt to climate change, learn about micro enterprise creation, and adopt more sustainable farming methods.
These centres drive innovation, from new technologies and data solutions to alternative income streams that make coffee-growing communities more resilient. Their work has increased farmers’ incomes by up to 50%.
Farmer-led Centres of Excellence provides training on:
- Yield improvement
- Climate adaptatio
- Business development
Result: Up to 50% income increase
Where next for Cafedirect?
Cafédirect’s Manifesto isn’t just a brand campaign—it’s a concrete business plan for a more equitable and climate-ready coffee sector. With producers like Michael Montalván helping shape the company’s decisions and thousands of consumers making better choices, the future of coffee is still within reach.
As Nick reminds us: "The work we do and the ideas we share will have motivated 15 million people to do at least one thing to make their life more sustainable."
Adriano Cafiso’s Global Lens on Peru: Traceability & Transparency in Practice
From buyer-side initiatives and blue sky thinking to boots-on-the-ground realities across a number of different origins, we speak with Adriano Cafiso, a seasoned sourcer, about his experience sourcing from multiple origins every year.
For over two decades, Adriano Cafiso has immersed himself in the world of coffee, bridging the gap between academic research, sourcing, and on-the-ground impact at origin. From his early studies on the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of coffee at the University of Catania to his tenure as a taster and buyer for an Italian roastery, Cafiso’s journey has taken him across continents, deep into the coffee lands of Peru, Congo, Uganda, and India.
Today, his work extends from the oldest Arabica plantation in Italy—La Finca Balistrieri in Sicily—to Ethiopia and Peru, where he is actively shaping the future of traceable and sustainable specialty coffee. We discussed with Adriano his experiences, the evolution of Peruvian coffee, and his commitment to sustainability and biodiversity.
Mark: Your coffee journey started with research in academia. How did that transition into sourcing and working at origin?
Adriano: I began my coffee journey with an academic focus, studying the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of coffee at the University of Catania. My passion quickly led me beyond research and into the field. After completing my thesis, I worked for ten years as a taster and buyer for an Italian roastery, a role that immersed me in the realities of coffee production. It was during this period that I lived in several coffee-producing countries, working directly with farmers during harvests and processing periods. This hands-on experience allowed me to understand not just coffee quality but the complex social, economic, and environmental factors that shape it.
You’ve worked with many coffee origins—Congo, Uganda, India—but Peru holds a special place in your career. What initially attracted you to Peruvian coffee?
Peru was one of the first origins I worked with, so naturally, it holds sentimental value. But beyond that, it’s the incredible biodiversity and regional diversity that continues to draw me back. Every time I return, I discover something new—whether it’s an emerging microregion, a rare varietal, or an innovative fermentation process. The sheer variety in terroir and microclimates gives Peru immense potential.
Another key reason is the human and economic potential of Peru’s coffee sector. The coffee-growing communities here are resilient, passionate, and eager to improve their production. There’s a strong willingness to embrace specialty coffee, which is essential for long-term economic development and sustainability.
You’ve collaborated with producers such as Finca Chiriloma and Saba Café. What value do you bring to these projects?
My role is multifaceted. With
Saba Café, we began working three years ago in Huancavelica, a region deeply affected by the internal conflict and terrorism of past decades. The scars of that period remain—many coffee farms were abandoned, communities displaced, and opportunities lost. But the resilience of the farmers and their willingness to embrace specialty coffee is changing the landscape. Over time, we’ve uncovered incredible potential, working closely with producers to improve quality and market access.
With Finca Chiriloma, we focus on three main areas: export promotion, process innovation, and education. We’ve worked closely with the School of Coffee Excellence to spread knowledge about quality coffee practices. This project was deeply connected to the vision of Edwin Quea Paco, a pioneering producer who, sadly, passed away last year. His legacy continues to inspire our work in the region.
How does Peru compare to other origins you work with? What are its greatest strengths and challenges?
Peru stands out among coffee origins due to its immense biodiversity, which supports a broad range of flavour profiles, from bright, fruity, and floral to rich chocolate and spice notes. The country is also seeing a rise in specialty coffee culture, with growing interest in microlots, experimental fermentation techniques, and direct trade relationships. The country shows strong potential for sustainability, with many farms already organic-certified and increasingly adopting agroforestry practices.
However, Peru faces notable challenges. Infrastructure and logistics remain underdeveloped in remote coffee-growing areas, complicating transport and processing. There are also gaps in education and training, particularly in post-harvest processing and quality control, despite growing interest in specialty coffee.
Political and economic instability further exacerbates uncertainty for producers, while a lack of government transparency and widespread bureaucracy hinder farmers’ access to financial and technical support.
What excites you most about the future of Peruvian coffee?
The continuous discovery of outstanding coffees and the opportunity to be part of a positive transformation in the industry. There are producers making incredible strides in fermentation and post-harvest techniques, and regions like Huancavelica and Amazonas are emerging as specialty coffee hotspots. We are just scratching the surface of Peru’s full potential, and that is incredibly exciting.
Tell us about your work with coffee in Sicily. Where do you see the future of coffee production there?
In Sicily, we manage La Finca Balistrieri, the oldest Arabica coffee plantation in Italy. While coffee cultivation here is still experimental, climate change is shifting agricultural possibilities. Coffee, alongside crops like papaya and pitaya, is becoming a viable alternative to traditional horticulture.
Our goal is not just to produce coffee but to understand how it fits into regenerative farming. Sicily has suffered from severe soil degradation, and we believe agroforestry and mixed-crop systems—where coffee plays a role—can help restore soil health and biodiversity.
Is there anything else you’d like to share?
I believe the rise of specialty coffee is driving positive change worldwide. It’s not just about better-tasting coffee; it’s about creating more sustainable farming systems, improving livelihoods, and building resilience against climate change. As consumers become more informed, we have a real chance to shape a better future for coffee producers and ecosystems.
A bright future
From his academic beginnings in coffee science to his hands-on work with farmers across continents, Adriano Cafiso embodies the intersection of research, sourcing, and sustainability. His work in Peru, Ethiopia, and Sicily highlights the evolving landscape of specialty coffee and the possibilities for regenerative, traceable, and high-quality production.
As the Peruvian coffee sector continues to mature, Cafiso’s insights and collaborations help bridge traditional practices with modern innovation, ensuring that coffee remains not just a commodity, but a sustainable and meaningful craft.
If traceability is the theory, EUDR is the stress test. Here’s how one cooperative is navigating the new rules.
Navigating EUDR – A Case Study on Laguna Los Condores Compliance Journey with Evelin Caman Aliga
The European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) represents a paradigm shift for global coffee exports, mandating strict deforestation-free compliance for products entering the EU market. This legislation has placed coffee-producing countries, particularly those with high numbers of smallholder coffee producers like Peru, under immense pressure to meet new traceability and sustainability standards.
For Laguna Los Condores, a Peruvian coffee cooperative working in the Amazonas region with 806 producers in its supply chain, EUDR compliance has been both a challenge and an opportunity. Since 2022, Laguna has actively worked to prepare for these regulations, implementing awareness campaigns, refining traceability systems, and adapting farm management strategies to increase productivity within existing land boundaries.
This case study explores their journey, highlighting the real-world challenges, the ongoing uncertainties, and the broader industry implications of EUDR in the Peruvian coffee sector.
What EUDR means for coffee producers, associations, cooperatives and exporters
EUDR is designed to ensure that agricultural commodities, including coffee, do not contribute to deforestation. The key compliance requirements include:
Deforestation-free supply chains: Coffee farms must prove no deforestation has occurred after December 31, 2020.
- Geolocation data: Each batch of coffee exported to the EU must include precise farm location details.
- Legal land ownership proof: Producers must verify their land tenure, a challenge in regions where formal land titles are scarce.
- Due diligence statements: Exporters must provide documentation proving compliance with these regulations.
For cooperatives like Laguna, who also export, meeting these requirements is particularly complex due to Peru’s fragmented land ownership system and the technological gaps many smallholder farmers face.
Adapting to EUDR regulations with Laguna Los Condores
Laguna is a key player in Peru’s specialty coffee sector, working with 806 producers to bring high-quality, traceable coffee to international markets. With the rise of EUDR, Laguna has proactively taken steps to ensure compliance while safeguarding the livelihoods of its producers.
Steps taken for EUDR compliance
-
Awareness and education: Since 2022, Laguna has conducted extensive workshops and technical assistance programmes to help producers understand the implications of EUDR. These initiatives have emphasised sustainable practices, particularly ensuring that farms do not encroach upon deforested areas.
-
Traceability and data collection: One of the most demanding aspects of EUDR compliance is providing farm-level geolocation data. Laguna has been working to map farm boundaries, a task complicated by the absence of official land records for many producers.
-
Land ownership challenges: Less than 20% of agricultural lands in Peru have formal property titles. This has become a major roadblock for Laguna and other organisations. Without legal land ownership documents, proving compliance under EUDR is difficult, creating uncertainty for smallholder coffee producers whose market access depends on meeting these requirements.
-
Increasing productivity without expanding land use: To align with sustainability goals, Laguna has focused on improving farm productivity per hectare rather than expanding into new land.
Key strategies for increasing productivi
- Teaching advanced cultivation techniques to optimise yield per hectare.
- Introducing tissue management practices to enhance coffee plant longevity.
- Encouraging financial literacy, so producers can better assess production costs and profitability.
The postponement of EUDR: A needed adjustment or a delay tactic?
In late 2024, the EU announced a 12-month postponement of EUDR enforcement, citing concerns over implementation clarity. While some organisations welcomed the delay as a chance to better prepare, others questioned whether the extra time would lead to genuine support for producers or merely prolong the uncertainty.
Laguna’s view on the postponement
They view the postponement as a double-edged sword. On one hand, it provides much-needed time—to refine traceability systems, work through the complexities of land tenure, and help more producers align with EUDR requirements. On the other, there’s a real concern that without urgency from policymakers and buyers, the sector could find itself scrambling once again as the new deadline approaches in 2025.
Key barriers to EUDR compliance
- Only 1 in 5 farms in Peru has a land title.
- Smartphones, GPS, and connectivity remain limited in many rural areas.
- Compliance costs are high, especially for smallholders.
Challenges and realities: What’s holding back compliance?
Despite Laguna’s early and proactive efforts, several structural barriers continue to complicate the path to full EUDR compliance. Chief among them is the issue of land tenure: without formal government-backed titles, many producers simply can’t provide the legal proof of ownership that the regulation demands. The cost of compliance adds another layer of difficulty—mapping farms, collecting geolocation data, and maintaining digital records requires funding and infrastructure that smallholder farmers often don’t have.
On top of that, many producers work in areas with limited access to smartphones, GPS tools, or reliable internet, making the technical side of traceability a significant hurdle. All of this unfolds against a backdrop of growing market pressure, as buyers begin to prioritise EUDR-compliant coffee—putting those who can’t meet the standards at risk of being left out of key European markets.
The road ahead: Is EUDR a threat or an opportunity?
While compliance remains complex,Laguna recognises that the EUDR could ultimately bring long-term benefits—if the right support structures are in place. For producers able to meet the regulation’s demands, there’s a chance to stand out in the market, potentially securing higher prices for traceable, deforestation- free coffee. The process of aligning with EUDR has also encouraged better farm management, as producers begin to engage more closely with their own data— tracking costs, understanding yields, and making more informed decisions.
Over time, the regulation could even drive broader sustainability efforts, creating space for greater investment in reforestation and agroforestry. But these benefits won’t materialise on good intentions alone. Systemic changes are essential. Without government-backed land titling, many producers will remain locked out of compliance.
Financial assistance is also crucial, especially for cooperatives and smallholders who cannot absorb the costs of new traceability systems on their own. And perhaps most urgently, clearer, more practical guidance is needed from EU institutions to avoid another wave of last-minute confusion when enforcement resumes.
A defining moment for Peruvian coffee
Laguna’s case illustrates the real-world complexities of EUDR compliance, from land tenure struggles to the costs of traceability systems. While challenges remain, this moment represents an opportunity to redefine how sustainability and trade intersect in the coffee industry. With the right support, EUDR could ultimately strengthen Peru’s position as a leader in sustainable coffee production.
Key recommendations on EUDR
Producers
- Start documenting farm boundaries and production data
- Engage with cooperatives / exporters to understand traceability requirements
- Implement productivity-boosting techniques to avoid land expansion
Exporters
- Invest in traceability systems to streamline compliance
- Advocate for government assistance in land titling initiatives
- Work closely with European buyers to clarify expectations
Policymakers
- Support land tenure reform to facilitate compliance
- Incentivise tech adoption for digital traceability in rural areas
- Provide financial assistance to cooperatives adjusting to new requirements
From policy pressure to microbial precision—sustainability is just as much about what happens in the tank as on the farm.
Beyond Fermentation: Unlocking Coffee & Cacao’s Potential with Emer Tauma
Emer Tauma has worked with countless coffee and cacao producers across Peru, not only as a specialist in post-harvest fermentation but also as a community builder. Through his cooperative, APROSEM Café y Cacao, he collaborates directly with smallholder coffee and cacao producers to improve processing standards and open new market opportunities. His work bridges science, tradition, and entrepreneurship—anchoring this feature in lived experience and applied innovation.
Born and raised on a coffee farm, Emer Tauma’s journey into the world of coffee began at an early age. As the son of a coffee producer, he experienced firsthand the intricacies of cultivation and the dedication it demands. His passion led him to study at the Mare Terra Coffee Institute in Barcelona, where he deepened his understanding of coffee science.
Specialising in fermentation processes at Tecnicafé (Innovation Technological Park for Coffee and Coffee Production Corp) in Colombia, he has since dedicated his career to researching coffee and its derivatives. With experience spanning Peru, Colombia, Ecuador, Panama, and Brazil, Emer has developed innovative coffee processing techniques that enhance both quality and flavour profiles.
Coffee and cacao
For as long as he can remember, coffee has been an integral part of Emer’s life. Even before planting his first coffee tree, he was collecting wild coffee cherries in the mountains as a child. Over time, his expertise expanded to include cacao, another vital crop in Peru’s agricultural landscape.
Today, he operates in key coffee and cacao regions— Cajamarca and Junín—where he applies his knowledge to refine fermentation techniques and elevate the final product’s quality.
Mastering coffee processing through experimentation Emer’s journey into specialty coffee processing began in 2012, at a time when the specialty coffee movement was gaining global momentum. His curiosity about differentiated coffees led to countless fermentation experiments. Studies in Spain and Colombia provided the technical foundation to systematise and refine these processes, enabling him to develop unique and complex flavour profiles through controlled fermentation.
Coffee vs. cacao fermentation: Understanding the key differences
Although coffee and cacao fermentations share microbial foundations and post-harvest importance, the specifics of their processes diverge in several meaningful ways:
1. Temperature control:
Coffee fermentation typically occurs at temperatures below 30°C, with cooler conditions preferred to maintain control and avoid over-fermentation. In contrast, cacao fermentation generates heat through microbial activity, naturally rising to 45–55°C. Temperatures above 55°C can be detrimental to cacao quality and are generally avoided.
2. Fermentation and oxidation dynamics:
Coffee primarily undergoes microbial fermentation, which may be either aerobic (oxygen available) or anaerobic (oxygen deprived) depending on the method used. Some styles also involve mild oxidation due to air exposure. In cacao, both fermentation and oxidation are essential: microbial fermentation dominates the early stages, while oxidation of the cacao seeds follows as oxygen penetrates the pulp-free mass, transforming polyphenols and developing chocolate flavour precursors.
3. Oxygen and infrastructure:
Coffee fermentation
infrastructure varies widely. It can occur in open- air tanks (aerobic) or in sealed environments (anaerobic), depending on the desired flavour outcome. Cacao, by contrast, is always processed in aerobic, well-ventilated conditions, typically in wooden boxes or baskets that are regularly turned to introduce oxygen and sustain microbial activity.
4. Drying methods and environmental needs:
Both crops utilise similar drying technique, raised beds, patios, and occasionally mechanical dryers, but differ in moisture targets and drying sensitivities. Cacao is especially vulnerable to mould and requires careful management during drying. Beyond drying, their ideal cultivation environments differ:
- Cacao thrives in lowland tropical climates, typically below 800 meters above sea level.
- Coffee prefers higher elevations (1,000 – 2,000+ masl), where cooler temperatures contribute to slower fruit maturation and more complex flavour development.
Exploring anaerobic and double fermentation in cacao
While anaerobic and double fermentation techniques are more commonly associated with coffee, some of their underlying principles—such as controlling oxygen exposure and steering microbial activity—can be selectively adapted to cacao.
However, because cacao fermentation requires aerobic conditions at key stages for proper seed death and flavour precursor development, fully anaerobic fermentation presents unique challenges. When carefully managed, experimental methods such as sealed fermentations or multi-phase inoculation can yield more distinct and complex flavour profiles in cacao.
Challenges of implementing fermentation on new farms
Introducing fermentation techniques to farms unfamiliar with the practice can be challenging. Emer has found the most common obstacles to include:
A lack of technical knowledge among producers.
-
Inconsistent environmental conditions, making it harder to standardise fermentation outcomes.
-
Limited financial resources for infrastructure improvements.
-
Resistance to change, as some farmers hesitate to adopt new techniques.
Nevertheless, with education, hands-on training, and phased implementation, these challenges can be addressed. The potential for enhanced cup quality and increased market value makes fermentation an invaluable tool for advancing both coffee and cacao production in Peru.
Looking to the future
With years of experience across multiple coffee-producing countries, Emer Tauma remains committed to pushing the boundaries of coffee and cacao fermentation. His passion for research and innovation continues to shape Peru’s specialty industries, ensuring that producers can leverage fermentation techniques to create world-class products.
As Peru strengthens its reputation as a specialty coffee and cacao powerhouse, experts like Emer play a pivotal role in bridging tradition with modern processing innovations, paving the way for even more exciting developments in the years to come.
Visit Emer in Lima!
Beyond his fieldwork and research, Emer also celebrates the results of these efforts in Lima, where he runs Ashani Cafe, a café showcasing the coffees produced by him and cooperative members. If you’re ever in Lima, stop by to taste the fruits of their labour and experience the full circle of Peru’s specialty coffee and cacao story.
Innovation isn’t always about new tech—sometimes, it’s about seeing a misunderstood species in a new light.
The Rise of Robusta - Lukas Harbig, CEO of CUMPA, on climate-ready coffee in the region of San Martín
Canephora—often known by its more common name, Robusta—is one of two main coffee species cultivated commercially, alongside Arabica. While Arabica is celebrated for its bright acidity and complex flavours, Canephora is distinguished by its resilience, higher caffeine content, and deeper, earthier taste profile.
Traditionally dismissed by the specialty coffee industry, Canephora is now undergoing a global reappraisal, as climate change threatens the sustainability of Arabica in lower-altitude regions. For CUMPA, a German-based green coffee importer founded in 2018, Canephora isn’t just a backup plan—it’s a key to the future of coffee in Peru.
Their journey into Canephora began unexpectedly in San Martín, where a research project in 2017 revealed that climate stressors were making Arabica increasingly difficult to grow. However, instead of defaulting to hybrid Arabicas, CUMPA saw an overlooked opportunity in cultivating Canephora as a sustainable and high-quality alternative.
“For decades, Canephora has been dismissed as a ‘low-grade’ coffee. But the reality is, it’s an entirely different species that has been misunderstood. If we grow and process it with the same care as Arabica, we can elevate it to specialty standards. It’s not a matter of replacing one with the other—it’s about adapting to new realities in coffee production.”
Why Canephora? The climate crisis and a necessary shift
In coffee-growing regions like San Martín, Amazonas, Huánuco, and Junín, farmers are witnessing firsthand the increasing vulnerability of Arabica to pests, diseases, and extreme weather patterns. The region’s mid-elevation farms (1000-1500m) are particularly at risk, as the spread of coffee leaf rust has outpaced even the most disease-resistant
Arabica hybrids.
Despite these challenges, Canephora remained largely ignored in Peru, dismissed as “bad coffee” with no place in the specialty sector. Meanwhile, in European roasteries, CUMPA saw a different reality—Canephora was already gaining appreciation among espresso-focused roasters, cold brew specialists, and fermentation innovators.
“Canephora has unique strengths—it thrives where Arabica struggles, it offers more body and texture, and with proper post-harvest techniques, it can showcase unexpected complexity. Yet, in Peru, no one was seriously investing in it.”
Reviving forgotten genetics: CUMPA’s work with Peruvian Canephora
While searching for existing Canephora cultivation in Peru, CUMPA found an unlikely source: CEPRO Yanesha in Villa Rica, a cooperative working with indigenous Yanesha people. Unbeknownst to many, Peru already had a genetic foundation for high-quality Canephora. In the 1980s, a government project introduced five different Canephora varieties to select farms in the Central Jungle. However, this initiative was abandoned due to political instability, armed conflict, and shifting market preferences.
Decades later, these plants were rediscovered. What was once considered an outdated experiment was suddenly a potential blueprint for Peru’s future in climate- resilient coffee. Using seeds from
CEPRO Yanesha and
CENFROCAFE, CUMPA and its partners planted 22.5 hectares of Canephora across 30 farms from
APROECO and
ORO VERDE cooperatives in San Martín.
Unlike industrial Robusta farms, which often prioritise yield over quality, this project took a specialty-focused approach, focusing on:
-
Genetic selection: Testing multiple Canephora varieties for cup quality and disease resistance.
-
Agroforestry integration: Encouraging farms to maintain biodiversity and protect soil health.
-
Processing innovation: Experimenting with fermentation techniques, controlled drying methods, and optimised hulling.
Despite Canephora’s natural resilience, it is not immune to climate stress. The project has faced two of the hottest summers on record in 2023 and 2024, testing the limits of these plants. Yet, the vast majority of the ~70,000 seedlings have survived—a sign that Canephora could provide a viable path forward for coffee farmers struggling with Arabica’s declining viability.
A new chapter for Peruvian Canephora
The coming harvest will be a critical moment for Peruvian Canephora, as farmers, processors, and buyers assess its flavour potential, market viability, and scalability. Last year, CUMPA attempted to fund a CQI Q Processing Robusta Course for these pioneering farmers, but financial support fell short. Nevertheless, progress continues. One of the most exciting developments has been CUMPA’s role in knowledge exchange programmes.
In December 2024, they facilitated an educational trip to Brazil, where Peruvian producers from San Martín and Junín met with Canephora specialists in Espírito Santo, one of the world’s leading Robusta-producing regions.
“Visiting Brazil was a revelation. Farmers who had never considered Canephora as a premium crop saw an entirely different approach—a culture of meticulous cultivation, intentional processing, and real market demand for high- quality Robusta.”
Overcoming barriers: Traceability, market access, and perception
While Canephora has clear agronomic advantages, the transition won’t be easy. In Peru, logistics, traceability, and pricing models are deeply tied to Arabica, making Canephora’s integration into specialty coffee markets a slow process. A key challenge is traceability—if Canephora is priced lower than Arabica, farmers may be tempted to sell it under a different name in nearby markets.
For importers like CUMPA, this complicates efforts to establish a stable supply chain and ensure fair pricing.
“For Canephora to succeed in Peru, we need to create a transparent and fair market that incentivises quality-focused production. Otherwise, farmers will continue treating it as a fallback crop instead of an opportunity.”
The future: Where can Peruvian Canephora grow?
CUMPA believes that the lower slopes of the Andes, particularly in the Huallaga Valley and the Amazon Basin, could be prime regions for specialty Canephora. However, the company insists that Canephora cultivation must not come at the expense of deforestation.
“Our goal is not to replace Arabica, nor to clear land for industrial Robusta farms. Instead, we see Canephora as an agroforestry solution, offering farmers an alternative to environmentally destructive industries like cattle grazing, palm oil, and rice farming.”
Rethinking Canephora
For too long, Canephora has been dismissed as a lesser coffee, rather than being understood on its own terms. But with the right farming, processing, and market positioning, it can become a legitimate part of Peru’s specialty coffee sector. CUMPA’s message is clear:
“Give Canephora a try.”
From climate-smart fermentation tanks to satellite-powered traceability maps, innovation is shaping the future of Peruvian coffee. But progress doesn’t only happen in labs or export offices. Sometimes, it starts with a festival in a remote mountain village.
In the next chapter, we turn our attention to Huancavelica and Huánuco—two overlooked regions whose producers are stepping into the spotlight through competitions, events, and growing recognition. As these new names rise on the specialty map, they show us that origin is not just a place—it’s a story waiting to be told.
Chapter 2. Emerging Coffee Regions
